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Good Nottinghill 2005-09-06 3:13

Grain work ok for me, but if this is supposed to be a sunset shot colors and brightness should look different (see my WS). I believe you trust too much to the automatic settings of the camera which needs some exposure correction. Good note. Thanks for sharing

Old 09-06-2005, 11:27 AM
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Roussillon Roussillon is offline
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Default To Nottinghill: WS questions, etc

Thanks for the comment! I'm interested in how you made the changes you did. Did you use photoshop? Although I like the hughes that you obtained, I don't like how pixilated and rough the image became. Honestly, this was a rather dull afternoon and I had just missed the few slightly pinkish rays of the sunset by a few minutes. I never use the automatic settings on my camera, but my tendancy is to expose over what my metre reading says. Perhaps it would have been better to expose slightly under in this case?

This made sound like a strange request, but if you wanted to workshop any of my other shots, I would be interested to see what you do. I just discovered this WS feature and find it rather useful!
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Old 09-06-2005, 01:06 PM
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Nottinghill Nottinghill is offline
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Default Re: To Nottinghill: WS questions, etc

In WS I said exactly what I did: Gamma correction 0.4 and saturation +15. Pixelisation was a side effect of these changes and probably you would achieve a better result applying corrections to the original file.
I used IrfanView for these changes because I had no PS available from current location. IrfanView is a freeware sw which apart from organizing features enables also basic correction of photos.
You can also use Photoshop (I normally use Photoshop Elements) to get better results. As an alternative to gamma correction you can use levels, curves or shadow/highlights feature.

In low light cameras and manual meters usually display overexposured values.This is because they are calibrated to the gray chart reflecting some 17% of light. If you set camera exposure over metre readings you even strenghth this effect. You should use underexposure -0.5 to -1.0 f stop. I usually shot pictures with different underexposure values and one of them proves to be right.


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