Photographer's Note

Surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture, and the chief was the most skilled wave rider in the community with the best board made from the best tree. Moreover, the ruling class had the best beaches and the best boards, and commoners were not allowed on the same beaches.

The art of surfing was first observed by Europeans in 1767, by the crewmembers of the Dolphin at Tahiti.

These days, it's a quite popular recreational activity.

Surfboards were originally made of solid wood and were generally quite large and heavy (often up to 12 feet (3.7 m) long and 100 pounds / 45 kg).

The modern shortboard began its life in the late 1960s evolving up to today's common "thruster" style shortboard, a three fin design, usually around 6 to 7 feet (2.1 m) in length.

broglia, cigdom, ChrisJ, holmertz, phwall, Anna-- marcou esta nota como útil

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Additional Photos by daniel yoffe (pastadog) Gold Star Critiquer/Gold Star Workshop Editor/Gold Note Writer [C: 1670 W: 288 N: 2600] (13111)
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